Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Alpamayo Itinerary

It's not one of the Seven, but I think it's one of the most beautiful mountains on our planet. For that reason alone I've decided to head to Peru and climb 19,512' Alpamayo. Summit day includes a couple thousand feet of steep snow and ice climbing up to 70 degrees or so. AI 2-3.

I'll be going with San Juan Mountain Guides in Ouray CO and for more information on this climb, and to reserve your spot for next year, [CLICK HERE]

Here is the itinerary as listed on their website:


Depart U.S. for Peru arriving late evening. We will be there to pick you up at the airport and transport you to our hotel near the US Embassy in the Mariscal Sur district.


Today we travel to the high mountain town of Huaraz (9,500 ft.), and our hotel accommodations for the evening.


In Huaraz, we organize equipment and food for our expedition.  This also serves as a valuable acclimatization day.


Drive to Cashapampa (9,000').  Along the way we will pass through many smaller Peruvian villages and enjoy beautiful views of many Cordillera Blanca peaks, including the massive Huascaran. We begin our trek up the lovely Santa Cruz Valley to camp at Illma Corral (11,500').


Another splendid day of trekking in the high Andes to reach our base camp (13,500') for Alpamayo.


We hike a load of equipment and supplies to camp 1 (moraine) and return to base camp.


Today we hike to and stay at moraine camp.


A rest and acclimatization day at moraine camp.


Today we will move to Camp 2, also known as Col Camp.  This is one of the more challenging days of the expedition, as we will be navigating crevasses and some steep two-tool climbing with heavier packs on the way to our camp at 18,000'.

DAY 10

Summit Day on Alpamayo (19,512').  After we cross the bergschrund it is approximately 7 – 9 pitches of 55 – 70 degree neve and ice climbing to the summit ridge and the top of this sought after peak.  We will rappel the route back to high camp.

DAY 11

Extra summit day or rest day at Col Camp.

DAY 12

Extra summit day on Alpamayo.  Alternatively and if the group is feeling strong, we may choose to climb Quitaraju (19,820') by it’s North Face.  Though not as steep as Alpamayo, the route is longer and crests the magical 6000 meter mark.

DAY 13

Descend to basecamp from Col Camp.

DAY 14

With the aid of horses we will descend from basecamp back to Cashapampa and continue to Huaraz.

DAY 15

Depart Huaraz and return to Lima.

DAY 16

Return to the US.

Photo and information from San Juan Mountain Guides website.