Sunday, June 14, 2015
Friday, June 12, 2015
Sunday, April 26, 2015
Everest Avalanche 2015 - wreckage photos
Here are several photos showing the tragedy from Everest Basecamp from the Nepal Earthquake. Some of these are quite graphic, so please be warned. It's a great tragedy, and I have lost one friend in the Base Camp avalanche, and have more stuck above the Ice Fall, not knowing when they will be rescued.
If you'd like to contribute in any way, please register here to the right column, and I'll be sure to include you in the email that goes out to let you know reputable ways to donate for Nepal and the Sherpa people.
If you'd like to contribute in any way, please register here to the right column, and I'll be sure to include you in the email that goes out to let you know reputable ways to donate for Nepal and the Sherpa people.
Photos from the wreckage of base camp on Everest, including injured and damage. A must-see.
Posted by Seven Summits Quest on Sunday, April 26, 2015
Tuesday, April 14, 2015
Monte Cristo Couloir on Quandary - a Repeat with a Friend
On Saturday, April 11, I took my very good friend Todd Gilles, who shared my adventure on Elbrus Race 2013. He took 3rd place and I took 5th. I wrote about it and it's one of my best selling books on Amazon:
Elbrus Race 2013 (Seven Summits Quest Book 4)
It was my second time up this season. Last time the snow was really damp and deep, but that made for really easy climbing. I was using my GRIVEL Condor Trekking Pole with Arrest Pick instead of an ice axe. I was also using Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra 2 CS running shoes. Yes, they're a bit more stout than my usual trail running shoes, and yes they are somewhat waterproof, but I have run a 10:00 pace in them and I know several trail runners who do use them as their main shoe. I also wore Grivel Air Tech Light Crampons.
Since that worked out for me last time, I used it all for this time as well. I wore my GoLite WindPro Tights (sadly they went out of business), my Columbia OmniHeat (reflective dots) tech tee with TNF arm sleeves under my Patagonia R1 sweater. The weather was supposed to be a bit warmer according to the forecast. It wasn't. I ended up with my TNF BTN superlight softshell on as a wind shirt.
At the dam we took off up the couloir. I knew that there would be a longish section of tundra just over the first bulge, so I didn't bother with crampons at first. At the top edge of the tundra we stopped to put them on at a large rock. Up the steep snow slope we went with me in the lead. There was about a foot of powder/sugar over breakable crust and about halfway it changed to thick powder over the crust. There were some very solid bits that the aluminum crampons were a bit slick on, but I still felt comfortable and glad I wasn't in steel. Todd was in Lowa single boots with Petzl steel crampons. I figured he'd be just fine. I did slip a few times after breaking through the crust on some of the steeper sections, but jamming the pick in prevented any downward movement.
Using the Condor was intuitive for me.
At the top we took some pics and then took off down the East Ridge. I wanted to reconnoiter for an upcoming attempt at breaking my own record, and possibly get second place for the Winter East Ridge Route on Strava. More on that later.
We ran into some goats, and got pretty close to a big old one before it booked it down the South Face in one of the remaining snowfields where a half dozen of his family waited for him. Quite a sight. We pulled off our crampons at 12,000' and slid on our feet the rest of the way to the car in the softening snow. Fortunately it was quite overcast and cold and windy in spite of the forecast, so it didn't melt out too bad. But gosh that snow looked and felt dang fast to me. Hmmm....
We had a blast, and it's been a while since we've climbed together. Today I wasn't looking for speed, just a good workout, good snow climbing, and good companionship.
That's what it's all about, right?
Photos on this page were taken by Charles Miske and Todd Gilles on their own and each others' phones.
Elbrus Race 2013 (Seven Summits Quest Book 4)
It was my second time up this season. Last time the snow was really damp and deep, but that made for really easy climbing. I was using my GRIVEL Condor Trekking Pole with Arrest Pick instead of an ice axe. I was also using Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra 2 CS running shoes. Yes, they're a bit more stout than my usual trail running shoes, and yes they are somewhat waterproof, but I have run a 10:00 pace in them and I know several trail runners who do use them as their main shoe. I also wore Grivel Air Tech Light Crampons.
instead of an ice axe. I was also using Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra 2 CS running shoes. Yes, they're a bit more stout than my usual trail running shoes, and yes they are somewhat waterproof, but I have run a 10:00 pace in them and I know several trail runners who do use them as their main shoe. I also wore 
.Since that worked out for me last time, I used it all for this time as well. I wore my GoLite WindPro Tights (sadly they went out of business), my Columbia OmniHeat (reflective dots) tech tee with TNF arm sleeves under my Patagonia R1 sweater. The weather was supposed to be a bit warmer according to the forecast. It wasn't. I ended up with my TNF BTN superlight softshell on as a wind shirt.
At the dam we took off up the couloir. I knew that there would be a longish section of tundra just over the first bulge, so I didn't bother with crampons at first. At the top edge of the tundra we stopped to put them on at a large rock. Up the steep snow slope we went with me in the lead. There was about a foot of powder/sugar over breakable crust and about halfway it changed to thick powder over the crust. There were some very solid bits that the aluminum crampons were a bit slick on, but I still felt comfortable and glad I wasn't in steel. Todd was in Lowa single boots with Petzl steel crampons. I figured he'd be just fine. I did slip a few times after breaking through the crust on some of the steeper sections, but jamming the pick in prevented any downward movement.
Using the Condor was intuitive for me.
At the top we took some pics and then took off down the East Ridge. I wanted to reconnoiter for an upcoming attempt at breaking my own record, and possibly get second place for the Winter East Ridge Route on Strava. More on that later.
We ran into some goats, and got pretty close to a big old one before it booked it down the South Face in one of the remaining snowfields where a half dozen of his family waited for him. Quite a sight. We pulled off our crampons at 12,000' and slid on our feet the rest of the way to the car in the softening snow. Fortunately it was quite overcast and cold and windy in spite of the forecast, so it didn't melt out too bad. But gosh that snow looked and felt dang fast to me. Hmmm....
We had a blast, and it's been a while since we've climbed together. Today I wasn't looking for speed, just a good workout, good snow climbing, and good companionship.
That's what it's all about, right?
Photos on this page were taken by Charles Miske and Todd Gilles on their own and each others' phones.
Wednesday, April 1, 2015
Elbrus Race 2013 Facebook Video Plus Teaser
Elbrus Race 2013 - the book
It's available on Amazon right now, and I recommend that you get it and read it just for the adventure, if nothing else. In a nutshell, I returned to Elbrus after my attempt at Elbrus Race 2010, in which I aced the Qualifier (essentially a VerticalK Race) but was pulled from the main event, The Classic, after a serious case of food poisoning left me too weak to run.
I took my padowan Todd Gilles with and together we shared a hut with Kilian Jornet and his entourage. It was all great fun, despite running the Qualifier and Classic in storms. Todd took 3rd and I took 5th. Near the end of every winter season I sell a lot of these in Europe as people begin to wonder if they'll be entering or not.
I've been on a wave of PR's on both Quandary and the Manitou Incline, and have been considering that I'm in excellent shape for how early in the season it is, and maybe I should make a run at Elbrus Race 2015?
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I took my padowan Todd Gilles with and together we shared a hut with Kilian Jornet and his entourage. It was all great fun, despite running the Qualifier and Classic in storms. Todd took 3rd and I took 5th. Near the end of every winter season I sell a lot of these in Europe as people begin to wonder if they'll be entering or not.
VIDEO BELOW
I've been on a wave of PR's on both Quandary and the Manitou Incline, and have been considering that I'm in excellent shape for how early in the season it is, and maybe I should make a run at Elbrus Race 2015?
 |
| Top of the Manitou Incline after shaving 3 minutes off my previous effort |
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Elbrus Race 2013 - the book - one of my best selling books on Kindle - get it now. Share this page with all your friends who climb, run, train, and increase the tribe. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMBBRJU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00FMBBRJU&linkCode=as2&tag=imbizwebcom&linkId=64T2EUJONUERR7JF
Posted by Seven Summits Body on Wednesday, April 1, 2015
Friday, March 27, 2015
Quandary Winter Ascent Photos
I've done Quandary quite a few times this past winter. That's 14,265' Quandary, near Breckenridge Colorado. It's a Fourteener, and the trailhead access is really good most of the winter, so it's easy to get to, park and take off running. At least most of the time it's pretty fast hiking, or skyrunning, a sport of vertical ascents in rough conditions on steep mountain terrain.
I train here for much of my other mountain endeavors, including a possible attempt at Elbrus Race 2015. The photos that follow are from August 2014 to this week, and include various views, including trailheads, weather, goats, and feet.
Most of these are on the East Ridge Route, but one is from the Cristo Couloir. One is from an overnight on the summit. I got a few PR's recently on the Winter Route - articles HERE and HERE
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I train here for much of my other mountain endeavors, including a possible attempt at Elbrus Race 2015. The photos that follow are from August 2014 to this week, and include various views, including trailheads, weather, goats, and feet.
Most of these are on the East Ridge Route, but one is from the Cristo Couloir. One is from an overnight on the summit. I got a few PR's recently on the Winter Route - articles HERE and HERE
Wednesday, March 18, 2015
Winter Fourteener - Two Ways to Dress
I recently went up Quandary three different times in Calendar Winter. I also did a few earlier in the season, but the contrast in clothing will illustrate the options in dressing for a Winter Fourteener.
I took my kids up, ages 8, 11, and 14 and knew that it would be a relatively slow day. As it was, it was over four hours to the summit and another couple hours down. It was about 15 F and very little wind, which was great for a hike with children. We all dressed similarly.
It was perfect for the conditions. We all started out in snowshoes but then took them off and stacked them on a large cairn (pile of rocks to mark the trail) at about 13,200' and did not put them back on for the rest of the hike up or down to the parking area.
In the packs were a couple pair of spare gloves and hats, a liter of water each, and about 6 snacks each. We were wearing just about everything we had for the hike.
Later when I went back to Quandary to set a speed ascent PR (personal record, otherwise PB or personal best) while testing the possibility of training for Elbrus Race 2015, I planned on going very quickly so breathability, mobility, and weight were a concern.
You want to get the most you can out of each item of clothing.
I wore an Ultrarunning Vest and had two 16 oz. bottles of liquid, one of which was Accelerade Hydro, which I'm trying to get used to using as my primary fuel source while training. I also had a few Hammer Gels, a Honey Stinger Waffle, and a pack of Jelly Belly Energy Beans. But those were for back-up only. I had no real intention of using them unless I bonked.
In my pack I had a thin TNF Primaloft vest, a wind shirt, a Buff, and a spare pair of gloves.
These are two different extremes. Dressed all in winter ski clothing, or dressed in cold weather running clothing. There are a few key points to consider selecting clothing for a winter fourteener.
Time on the trail
Current and expected weather
Exertion and sweat level
Willingness to bail at first sign of trouble
Willingness to suffer a little bit
Speed with which you can get to the car if needed
I hope you can consider for yourself which approach is best. That being said, unless you are a skilled, trained, fit athlete, do not go as light as I did with my speed attempts.
By the way, I did in fact get 3 PR's in this 10 day period included in this article. On March 9 I got a PR for the ascent using the winter route, and then on March 17 I beat it and also got a PR for the descent of the winter route. The condition of the snow is deteriorating rapidly so I don't know if I'll be able to beat my time again before the route switches to the summer route and I start all over again.
If you want to get updates on my training for the seven summits SUBSCRIBE TO THE NEWSLETTER and stay in the loop.
I took my kids up, ages 8, 11, and 14 and knew that it would be a relatively slow day. As it was, it was over four hours to the summit and another couple hours down. It was about 15 F and very little wind, which was great for a hike with children. We all dressed similarly.
Clothing for this hike of a Winter Fourteener:
- Base Layers, top and bottom
- Fleece jacket
- Ski jacket
- Ski pants
- Wool socks
- Sorel style lined boots
- Wool cap
- Mittens or ski gloves
- Face mask or Buff
It was perfect for the conditions. We all started out in snowshoes but then took them off and stacked them on a large cairn (pile of rocks to mark the trail) at about 13,200' and did not put them back on for the rest of the hike up or down to the parking area.
In the packs were a couple pair of spare gloves and hats, a liter of water each, and about 6 snacks each. We were wearing just about everything we had for the hike.
 |
| Petting the Pug at 13,200' on Quandary |
 |
| Hiking the East Ridge of Quandary - Winter Fourteener in Ski Clothing |
Later when I went back to Quandary to set a speed ascent PR (personal record, otherwise PB or personal best) while testing the possibility of training for Elbrus Race 2015, I planned on going very quickly so breathability, mobility, and weight were a concern.
You want to get the most you can out of each item of clothing.
Clothing for Fast Winter Fourteener attempt:
- Kahtoola Microspikes
- Pearl Izumi Trail N2 Running Shoes
- Point6 Wool Summit Socks
- Pearl Izumi wind-pro tights
- Columbia Omni-Heat Tech Tee
- Monkey-Fur style fleece jacket
- Soft-shell gloves
- Thin Wool Liner Beanie
 |
| With hood up, vest and wind shirt on at summit - a winter fourteener |
, which I'm trying to get used to using as my primary fuel source while training. I also had a few Hammer Gels, a Honey Stinger Waffle, and a pack of Jelly Belly Energy Beans. But those were for back-up only. I had no real intention of using them unless I bonked. |
| With wind shirt and buff at summit |
Different Options - Clothing for a Winter Fourteener
These are two different extremes. Dressed all in winter ski clothing, or dressed in cold weather running clothing. There are a few key points to consider selecting clothing for a winter fourteener.
Time on the trail
Current and expected weather
Exertion and sweat level
Willingness to bail at first sign of trouble
Willingness to suffer a little bit
Speed with which you can get to the car if needed
I hope you can consider for yourself which approach is best. That being said, unless you are a skilled, trained, fit athlete, do not go as light as I did with my speed attempts.
By the way, I did in fact get 3 PR's in this 10 day period included in this article. On March 9 I got a PR for the ascent using the winter route, and then on March 17 I beat it and also got a PR for the descent of the winter route. The condition of the snow is deteriorating rapidly so I don't know if I'll be able to beat my time again before the route switches to the summer route and I start all over again.
 |
| Running shoes, wool socks, tights and Kahtoolas - perfect if you're trained and experienced |
If you want to get updates on my training for the seven summits SUBSCRIBE TO THE NEWSLETTER and stay in the loop.
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